I haven't walked the whole thing since 2004 when researching our
Cateran Trail guidebook – so my accommodation experience might be a bit dated, but I did enjoy the Log Cabin Hotel amid the turf roofs of Kirkmichael. The small diversion from the Trail to Diarmid's Tomb is well worth doing but you need to read the instructions on page 39 because the OS Explorer map gets its position wrong. The hot news of 2006 is that the whole section from Dalnaglar to Kirkton of Glenisla has been moved offroad (fully described and mapped on our free upgrade card) so be sure you have that. In particular, on a clear day don't miss the side-trip up Mount Blair: for an altitude gain of only 380m (1250ft) you get amazing 360 views over 30 Munros including Ben Nevis 62 miles away! It also has the finest location indicator (built into the wind shelter at the summit) in Scotland, maybe in the world!
NB the offer of a free upgrade card applies to all Forum users: email your address to
info@rucsacs.com but be aware that it makes much more sense if you have access to our book, it's not intended as a stand-alone.