Greetings Jacquetta, home today from our 4 day assault on the GGW. Before going into detail I must make special mention of George Simpson and his
Great Glen Baggage Shuttle Service you recommended. Exemplary service and, at £55 for the 4 days, worth every penny. He appears to be incredibly well-connected wherever we went on the route and our thanks go out to him
.
Now to the trek. Three of us left in the morning of Easter Monday (09/04/12) to drive to Fort William. Got on the road about 0745 hours and arrived, after a couple of stops, about 1500 hours. As I was in charge of the arrangements I had booked us 2 nights in the bunkhouse underneath the Ben Nevis Inn at Achintee. We planned to attempt to climb Ben Nevis the next day (Tuesday).
Woke early on the Tuesday to find that it was raining (no surprise there!) Went back to bed for a couple of hours to find the rain had cleared. On closer investigation it transpired that the rain we had had was hard, slippery and white up on the mountains! Anyway, back to the GGW.
Day 1 - Drove into Fort William, parked up and set off to find the start of the walk. Actually started walking at 0655 hours intending to overnight at the Youth Hostel at South Laggan. The day started dry and fine and we made good time. Neptune's Staircase came up in quick time and then it was along the Caledonian Canal. Just approaching Moy Swing Bridge we encountered a family on a motor launch, moored up. Being of a cheeky nature we asked if they had any bacon sandwiches prepared!! Rather than reacting with annoyance, the 'captain' John left the boat to present each of us with a glass of malt whisky! Carrying on past Gairlochy the Way got tougher with several inclines and downhills which were unexpected. The weather also took a turn for the worse and rain set in. This turned to hail while we had a 30-minute delay at the logging site, waiting for the transporter to be loaded. The 'detour' had been abandoned as too dangerous!! We arrived, still in heavy rain, at the Eagle Barge Inn, at Laggan Locks, only to be met again by John, the boat captain from earlier. A pleasant hour was passed while we waited for the rain to abate. We then made our way the last mile to the youth hostel at South Laggan, arriving at 1850 hours. The Footprint map has it at 23 miles and it felt like it.
Day 2 - Up at 0500 hours and walking at 0620. Dry but misty. We followed the old railway in a pleasant, but ghostly walk, along Loch Oich. An easy section up to Oich Bridge. On rejoining the canal we got in to conversation with another John who is the lock-keeper at Cullochy Lock. We enjoyed a pleasant 20-minute walk with him as the weather brightened and the sun came out. Lunch was enjoyed at Fort Augustus, sitting by the canal. We then pressed on to Invermoriston, a quite hilly and at times arduous walk. After a quick cuppa at the Glenmoriston Arms we took on the very steep climb behind the hotel en route for the last 4 miles to the youth hostel at Alltsigh. These last 4 miles felt more like 7 and, to make matters worse, there is no sign on the Way for the youth hostel: we walked nearly a mile past before retracing our steps
. A long day of about 25 miles was completed at 1635 hours.
Day 3 - A short day of about 10 miles. Up at 0700 and a leisurely breakfast before leaving at 0910 for Drumnadrochit. A gruelling walk nevertheless and we were all glad to arrive at the Loch Ness Backpackers, at West Lewiston, at 1330 hours. Felt more like 12 miles than 10. At least it had been mostly dry!
Day 4 - This was it: the last day. We had seats booked on the 1645 hours bus from Inverness back to Fort William. With this in mind we were out of bed at 0430 hours and walking at 0540, with some 20 miles to cover. Some serious climbs on this stretch just after leaving Drumnadrochit, made even more unpleasant by a steep diversion. A long haul up to the cairn by Corryfoyness Cottage, feet really beginning to hurt by now and blisters really complaining. Arrived at the 'eco' cafe at Abriachan. What an experience: no chairs, no tables and not much roof. 2 pigs, 4 dogs and more hens than I could count. The fare, however, was excellent. Bacon baps, hot chocolate and tea. Smashing.
All pretty level walking now, albeit in snow and hail, with a long slog until Inverness came in to view. Then the crippler! A sign at the top of the hill - Inverness Castle 4 miles!! We were in Inverness and the end was still 4 miles away - gutted
. This last stretch was soul-destroying
. It began to snow heavily and the steep downhill was extremely painful on the feet. Some of the waymarkers had been removed but, thanks to the Rucksack Reader, navigation was swiftly sorted.
We eventually walked up to the castle at 3.15pm. Hooray. This had felt like another 25-mile day, but was probably about 21.
The trip was made successful by the cameraderie of my walking companions and humour was never far away in spite of the long days and, on occasions, too little sleep. We caught the bus as scheduled and arrived back at Fort William within 2 hours. All of the travel arrangements had been spot on. The accommodation was superb throughout and the luggage collection and delivery faultless.
Would I try to do it in 4 days again? Probably not
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